P
Paul Dwyer
Guest
Hi all
Our '67 has the later Solex carb, the B.30 ZIC, which developed a
leak. I got ahold of a rebuild kit from H.D. Rogers & Sons in
Louisiana (www.hdrogers.com). The kit is Royze SO-23K, and from the
looks of it, it's very old stock. It cost $29.
The kit is minimal. It consists of an accelerator pump diaphragm, a
needle valve assembly, an idle mixture adjusting screw, aluminum
washers for the needle valve and the bowl plug, two base gaskets and a
top-cover-to-main-body gasket. Sorely missing is an O ring for the
accelerator pump nozzle, the two tiny and easy-to-lose ball valves,
and any instructions or illustrations at all.
Notes:
1. The Amphi tech manual instructs you to remove the "valve (54) and
plunger (58)" but never mentions them under the reassembly section.
2. Before replacing the idle mixture screw, I counted the turns the
old screw would go before seating (1 3/4), then put the new screw in,
seated it, and then backed out the same number of turns.
3. The old accelerator pump diaphragm wasn't obviously torn or
perforated, but the bottom two screws on the accelerator pump body
were a little loose, so that may have been the source of the fuel
leak. I put thread lock on the screws before putting it back together.
4. Our car has a bracket for the accelerator cable-to-carb bellcrank
and a 1/4" (bakelite?) plate attached to the manifold below the carb,
which makes three mating surfaces. Since the carb kit came with only
two gaskets, I had to find another by size, rather than application,
at my local auto parts store. Fel-Pro 30060 is a good fit. It's a
water pump gasket for 1965 through 1995 Chevy truck and GMC V-8s, so
should be easy to find everywhere, forever.
The car started right up, ran fine and doesn't leak. If you need more
than a basic rebuild, though, this kit probably won't suffice.
Paul Dwyer
ramblerdan@netheaven.com
www.netheaven.com/~dwyer/paul
1967 Amphicar (under my care)
1968 Rambler American
Our '67 has the later Solex carb, the B.30 ZIC, which developed a
leak. I got ahold of a rebuild kit from H.D. Rogers & Sons in
Louisiana (www.hdrogers.com). The kit is Royze SO-23K, and from the
looks of it, it's very old stock. It cost $29.
The kit is minimal. It consists of an accelerator pump diaphragm, a
needle valve assembly, an idle mixture adjusting screw, aluminum
washers for the needle valve and the bowl plug, two base gaskets and a
top-cover-to-main-body gasket. Sorely missing is an O ring for the
accelerator pump nozzle, the two tiny and easy-to-lose ball valves,
and any instructions or illustrations at all.
Notes:
1. The Amphi tech manual instructs you to remove the "valve (54) and
plunger (58)" but never mentions them under the reassembly section.
2. Before replacing the idle mixture screw, I counted the turns the
old screw would go before seating (1 3/4), then put the new screw in,
seated it, and then backed out the same number of turns.
3. The old accelerator pump diaphragm wasn't obviously torn or
perforated, but the bottom two screws on the accelerator pump body
were a little loose, so that may have been the source of the fuel
leak. I put thread lock on the screws before putting it back together.
4. Our car has a bracket for the accelerator cable-to-carb bellcrank
and a 1/4" (bakelite?) plate attached to the manifold below the carb,
which makes three mating surfaces. Since the carb kit came with only
two gaskets, I had to find another by size, rather than application,
at my local auto parts store. Fel-Pro 30060 is a good fit. It's a
water pump gasket for 1965 through 1995 Chevy truck and GMC V-8s, so
should be easy to find everywhere, forever.
The car started right up, ran fine and doesn't leak. If you need more
than a basic rebuild, though, this kit probably won't suffice.
Paul Dwyer
ramblerdan@netheaven.com
www.netheaven.com/~dwyer/paul
1967 Amphicar (under my care)
1968 Rambler American
