Carb rebuild experience


Paul Dwyer

Hi all

Our '67 has the later Solex carb, the B.30 ZIC, which developed a
leak. I got ahold of a rebuild kit from H.D. Rogers & Sons in
Louisiana ( The kit is Royze SO-23K, and from the
looks of it, it's very old stock. It cost $29.

The kit is minimal. It consists of an accelerator pump diaphragm, a
needle valve assembly, an idle mixture adjusting screw, aluminum
washers for the needle valve and the bowl plug, two base gaskets and a
top-cover-to-main-body gasket. Sorely missing is an O ring for the
accelerator pump nozzle, the two tiny and easy-to-lose ball valves,
and any instructions or illustrations at all.

1. The Amphi tech manual instructs you to remove the "valve (54) and
plunger (58)" but never mentions them under the reassembly section.
2. Before replacing the idle mixture screw, I counted the turns the
old screw would go before seating (1 3/4), then put the new screw in,
seated it, and then backed out the same number of turns.
3. The old accelerator pump diaphragm wasn't obviously torn or
perforated, but the bottom two screws on the accelerator pump body
were a little loose, so that may have been the source of the fuel
leak. I put thread lock on the screws before putting it back together.
4. Our car has a bracket for the accelerator cable-to-carb bellcrank
and a 1/4" (bakelite?) plate attached to the manifold below the carb,
which makes three mating surfaces. Since the carb kit came with only
two gaskets, I had to find another by size, rather than application,
at my local auto parts store. Fel-Pro 30060 is a good fit. It's a
water pump gasket for 1965 through 1995 Chevy truck and GMC V-8s, so
should be easy to find everywhere, forever.

The car started right up, ran fine and doesn't leak. If you need more
than a basic rebuild, though, this kit probably won't suffice.

Paul Dwyer
1967 Amphicar (under my care)
1968 Rambler American

Ken Chambers

Hi all,

Just an added tip for what I always do when rebuilding carbs. Many times the
parting surfaces are warped, so after performing that careful rebuild there's
still a possibility of leakage around the gaskets. The trick is to use some
grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and lap all gasket surfaces flat. Be sure the
sandpaper is on a perfectly flat surface like a table saw top or piece of plate
glass. The lower mounting flange of the carburetor is frequently badly warped
due to over
tightening. That flange can easily break if you try to straighten it. So here
again, lap it flat, even if it is badly warped. And don't over tighten it upon

Best regards,
Ken Chambers
'64 Amphi