Brakes

[wick68355@aol.com]

Sounds like the rear wheel cylinder. I do not think you can get a new one
only a rebuilt or a fine used one.
Tim Wick

 

[tommyintpa@aol.com]

Re: Re: brakes

In a message dated 8/12/02 7:25:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dougparsons@ameritech.net writes:


> The wheel cylinders can be rebuilt from White post
> restorations check the archives for info

Doug, Take the advice of us that have been there. White Post will rebuild
your wheel cylinders with a brass liner and give a lifetime guarantee. Have
them rebuild them and return them to you ready to install. They will reline
your brake shoes also. They do the rebuilds the same day they receive your
parts. It will cost you less and last forever. One more thing check out your
parking brake cables where they come out through the hull. If the cables are
old the covers will be broken, if you can see any sign of rust you will want
to order a set from Gordon Imports @714/523-3512 and replace them both. Also
if all four of the rubber brake lines have not been replaced you need to
replace them now. You cannot do a brake job with old rubber brake lines,
Gordon's will have them too. If you have the money pull the master cylinder
and send it to White Post with the rest of the stuff. You will be so glad you
did. Good luck Tommy in Tampa


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 

[DouglasK]

Does anyone know the part number for a rear brake part?
A number that I could use at a local parts store.
I need the part that actually pushes the liners against the drums.
I can't immediately remember the name, but the line screws into it,
and the plungers expand to push the liners.
Thanks in advance.
DouglasK


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 

[dougn200]

-Doug,

That is call a Wheel Cylinder and you will not find them at your
local parts store. The wheel cylinders can be rebuilt from White post
restorations check the archives for info The wheel cylinders can
also be rebuilt with new rubber etc if they have no pits in the
cylinder if they do you can hone them but be careful with hw much you
take off.

Doug


-- In amphicar-lovers@y..., "DouglasK" <douglask@t...> wrote:
> > Thanks in advance.
> DouglasK
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 

[Dave Derer]

Tommy your master cylinder is probably bad and your rear brakes dont
work at all. Or two or more front wheel cylinders are stuck. Later Dave
the Wave

 

[Robert]

I have had 3 Amphicars over the last 15 years. The 1st two were mechanically
junk , so I immediately replaced the brakes before I drove or swam. The 3rd
car is a Gordon restoration built in '99. The replacement brake parts on the
fist two cars were from Gordon's. All 3 of these car's brakes perform
perfectly immediately after swimming except for a bit of side-to-side
movement if they are not dried for 15 seconds after coming out of the water.

Rob Vondracek


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 

[Gord Souter]

From: "Scott K. Houghton" <scotthoughton@wolinski.com>
Subject: Emergency Brake Connection Plate
I am missing the connection block (approx. 4" U
channel piece that all cables connect to).

Does anyone have this connection block that I can purchase? If not, I would
be interested in borrowing one so that I can have one made. Please contact
me at scotthoughton@wolinski.com or (313) 719-6500.

Scott
I believe I have all the parts you will be needing
looking in the book at pate 41 in chaper 11
l have part#8,6,7, and 5 which make up all the joining parts
I will send you a list off line of all the 700 parts IO have in stock
anyone else wants a list email me off line.
new to the list is
spring materials to fix you seat area.
low cost sunvisors and a great carpet piece for your front wheel humps that
takes to the shape with no wrinkles.

GORD SOUTER
FOUR AMPHS


---
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[Ken ''KD'' Roy]

About those brakes...
When putting new brake shoes on, especially if you had them relined,
sometimes the new material is thicker than original,
so when you put the brake drum on, they're really tight.
This would make them seem like the brakes are on all of the time.
It happened to me once, so I took them to a brake place & they 're-arced'
the shoe,
taking off a little material so they didn't fit as tight.
Some people just cut off a little of the tabs that fit into the cylinders.

Till later.....
Ken Roy

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[Gord Souter]

The price is $110.00 exchange
But remember I will not have any to sell if I do not get the cores back
I am still waiting for parts back I sold in March..He's messing it up for
others

GORD SOUTER
four amphis


---
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[tommyintpa@aol.com]

Re: RE: brakes

In a message dated 8/13/03 6:33:19 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
houseboats@encode.com writes:


> The price is $110.00 exchange
> But remember I will not have any to sell if I do not get the cores back
> I am still waiting for parts back I sold in March..He's messing it up for
> others
>
> GORD SOUTER
> four amphis
>

Gord,
If I send you my brake shoes, about how long to get my own shoes relined.
Some people may have a little time and they are worth waiting a little time.
They
gotta be the best shoes an Amphi guy can get.
Tommy in Tampa


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 

[Ken Chambers]

Gord,

$110.00 exchange for what? One shoe, one wheel, four wheels? Also could you
describe the product you're selling.
What's special about your brake pad material? Is it riveted on or bonded? Turn
around time to complete the job? Do
you sell just the pad material so people can have it locally installed?

Thank you for providing more information.

Best regards,
Ken Chambers, CA
'64 Amphi



> The price is $110.00 exchange
> But remember I will not have any to sell if I do not get the cores back
> I am still waiting for parts back I sold in March..He's messing it up for
> others
>
> GORD SOUTER
> four amphis

 

[Gord Souter]

AS most of you know I supply what seems to be the best linnings going for
Amphicars.
I have had such a run on them this summer I find myself running low on
stock.
I need all the cores back as soon as posible now so I can send in to the
shop.
so If you got a set from me at Celina or Mt Dora please send them up to me
as soon as posible.

Vic Nelson in FL. your car was featured in a Canadian wood boat mag. in Mt
dora.
I am saving it for you.Took to Celina but none of the FL. group came up
this year.


Gord Souter,Canadian 4 amphs,
H4

MY new phone # is 1 705 327 2820

I buy, sell and restore Only Amphicars
over 700 different parts for sale.
Interior kits and fibreglass panels my specialty!


---
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[David Derer]

Take the time to clean wheel cylinders and paint. They usually blast
cylinders. Also make sure dust boot is tight. I usually replace them
with tighter ones. Later Dave the Wave

 

[Bihari, James]

<table dir="ltr">
We ended up cutting pieces of bicycle innertub and putting them over the wheel cylinder dust boots because we couldn't find boots that fit tight. Don't know if the inner tube will
hold up, but we'll see. Where did you get the tighter boots?
Jim Bihari
<blockquote dir="ltr" style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<font size="2">Message: 2
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 06:52:11 -0500
From: David Derer <dmd@essex1.com>
Subject: brakes

Take the time to clean wheel cylinders and paint. They usually blast
cylinders. Also make sure dust boot is tight. I usually replace them
with tighter ones. Later Dave the Wave


</font></blockquote>

 

[F M]

Re: RE: brakes

FYI

NAPA has a kit to rebuild the wheel cylinders, the boots are excatly the same as are the caps. the only thing that is different are the pistons, the fit but the ends are not the same

I think the kit is for an early chevy truck, I'll find out the excat part number.

"Bihari, James" <jbihari@optometry.osu.edu> wrote:
<blockquote class="replbq" style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">
We ended up cutting pieces of bicycle innertub and putting them over the wheel cylinder dust boots because we couldn't find boots that fit tight. Don't know if the inner tube will
hold up, but we'll see. Where did you get the tighter boots?
Jim Bihari
<blockquote dir="ltr" style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<font size="2">Message: 2
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 06:52:11 -0500
From: David Derer <dmd@essex1.com>
Subject: brakes

Take the time to clean wheel cylinders and paint. They usually blast
cylinders. Also make sure dust boot is tight. I usually replace them
with tighter ones. Later Dave the Wave


</font></blockquote></blockquote>

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[Gord Souter]

At Many of the swin ins I have gone to, I have sold,my supper duty,
waterproof brake shoes,
that will stop your car even when wet!.
now mind you , the rest of the system(hydralics) have to be in perfect
running order too.
All have been told that I must have the cores shipped back as soon as
possible, but MANY
have not done that yet(some have called and explained the delay).
I am very low on shoes now and If someone calls wanting them they will have
to wait till others send back the cores, so please get the in the mail to me
soon.
Gord Souter,Canadian 4 amphs,
6H4 (www.amphicar.ca)

MY new phone # is 1 705 327 2820

I buy, sell and restore Only Amphicars
over 700 different parts for sale.
Interior kits and fibreglass panels my specialty!


---
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[Gord Souter]

I use Dot 5 in all my restorations and since you have all new parts
Scott,(from me) now is a good time to start,
As you put the parts together put some in a cup and put all rubber parts
in it as you assemble.,
I have printed up my 2006 parts book and it comes with diagrams on each
page. It comes free with any order you get from me or can mail it by itself
for $10.00.of which $ 8.00 is refundable on your 1st order.
It is also listed in my web page(without diagrams) (www.amphicar.ca) in 2
formats
Gord Souter,Canadian 4 amphs,
ORILLIA ONT.
L3V 6H4

MY new phone # is 1 705 327 2820

I buy, sell and restore Only Amphicars
over 700 different parts for sale.
Interior kits and fibreglass panels my specialty!


---
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[Gord Souter]

on the brake subject..
#1...both my flex lines(front and rear )and Hugh Gordons are brand new,, not
40 years old.
and should be changed on every Amphicar going back on the road after
any long storage(over 7 years)
#2....My replacement brake shoes are the best that are out there... they
do stop Amphicars even after a swim..(must be on all 4 wheels)I replace them
on all restorations even if the originals still look good, as these work
better!
#3. Master cylinders...Yes we all know there is a Vw one that is close.. you
must make a new shaft to fit its cylinder thou...
This seems to be where the problem is... I have many cars and it has
happened to allot of them.. the brakes work fine for a year or so then the
pedal gets harder and harder,, you adjust the pedal rod length to get free
play, but it still feels weird... then it either locks up the wheels or goes
back the way it was and you have too much free play and you have to readjust
the rod again.
I know it is something in the master cylinder but not sure what's going on
in there.I have rebuilt them in the past,ands have many kits in stock but,
I suggest you replace the master when this happens..

On another note.
Every now and then I will give a little tech session on the chat,,Club is
welcome to use these in the news letter too.

EG... problem... when I back up and put brakes on there is a clunk,, when I
go forward,the 1st stop I hear the same clunk then is not heard again till
next time I back up.. seems to come from a front wheel.
Answer...Have someone stand near car and listen for clunk, Your will find
it is the rear wheel(eg Right side). now jack that wheel off the
ground.safty it then have someone put brake on lightly as you turn wheel
back and forth.look at the backing plate and you will see a bit of movement!
the 4 bolts that hold it on have come loose and sometimes the backing plate
holes will become enlongated.(if that happens you must replace the plate.I
have in stock)To repair you must take the rear hub off(tool required) to get
at the bolts..usually that torax'' same as prop shafts have)
these bolts must be loctighted, and be very snug..35 ft lbs.
Gord Souter,Canadian 4 amphs,
ORILLIA ONT.

MY new phone # is 1 705 327 2820 (www.amphicar.ca)

I buy, sell and restore Only Amphicars
over 700 different parts for sale.
Interior kits and fibreglass panels my specialty!


---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]

 

[Gord Souter]

on the brake subject..
#1...both my flex lines(front and rear )and Hugh Gordons are brand new,, not
40 years old.
and should be changed on every Amphicar going back on the road after
any long storage(over 7 years)
#2....My replacement brake shoes are the best that are out there... they
do stop Amphicars even after a swim..(must be on all 4 wheels)I replace them
on all restorations even if the originals still look good, as these work
better!
#3. Master cylinders...Yes we all know there is a Vw one that is close.. you
must make a new shaft to fit its cylinder thou...
This seems to be where the problem is... I have many cars and it has
happened to allot of them.. the brakes work fine for a year or so then the
pedal gets harder and harder,, you adjust the pedal rod length to get free
play, but it still feels weird... then it either locks up the wheels or goes
back the way it was and you have too much free play and you have to readjust
the rod again.
I know it is something in the master cylinder but not sure what's going on
in there.I have rebuilt them in the past,ands have many kits in stock but,
I suggest you replace the master when this happens..

On another note.
Every now and then I will give a little tech session on the chat,,Club is
welcome to use these in the news letter too.

EG... problem... when I back up and put brakes on there is a clunk,, when I
go forward,the 1st stop I hear the same clunk then is not heard again till
next time I back up.. seems to come from a front wheel.
Answer...Have someone stand near car and listen for clunk, Your will find
it is the rear wheel(eg Right side). now jack that wheel off the
ground.safty it then have someone put brake on lightly as you turn wheel
back and forth.look at the backing plate and you will see a bit of movement!
the 4 bolts that hold it on have come loose and sometimes the backing plate
holes will become enlongated.(if that happens you must replace the plate.I
have in stock)To repair you must take the rear hub off(tool required) to get
at the bolts..usually that torax'' same as prop shafts have)
these bolts must be loctighted, and be very snug..35 ft lbs.
Gord Souter,Canadian 4 amphs,
ORILLIA ONT.

MY new phone # is 1 705 327 2820 (www.amphicar.ca)

I buy, sell and restore Only Amphicars
over 700 different parts for sale.
Interior kits and fibreglass panels my specialty!


---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]

 

[rlgreen_55]

I can vouch for Gord's replacement brakes. I installed them on all 4
wheels in the spring, ran them in for a 100 miles, readjusted and
they work excellent!!! Tight brake petal, quick and even braking and
they work right out of the water. Note; your brake drums need to be
within tolerance.

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "Gord Souter"
<houseboats@...> wrote:
>
> on the brake subject..
> #1...both my flex lines(front and rear )and Hugh Gordons are brand
new,, not
> 40 years old.
> and should be changed on every Amphicar going back on the road
after
> any long storage(over 7 years)
> #2....My replacement brake shoes are the best that are out
there... they
> do stop Amphicars even after a swim..(must be on all 4 wheels)I
replace them
> on all restorations even if the originals still look good, as these
work
> better!
> #3. Master cylinders...Yes we all know there is a Vw one that is
close.. you
> must make a new shaft to fit its cylinder thou...
> This seems to be where the problem is... I have many cars and it has
> happened to allot of them.. the brakes work fine for a year or so
then the
> pedal gets harder and harder,, you adjust the pedal rod length to
get free
> play, but it still feels weird... then it either locks up the
wheels or goes
> back the way it was and you have too much free play and you have to
readjust
> the rod again.
> I know it is something in the master cylinder but not sure what's
going on
> in there.I have rebuilt them in the past,ands have many kits in
stock but,
> I suggest you replace the master when this happens..
>
> On another note.
> Every now and then I will give a little tech session on the
chat,,Club is
> welcome to use these in the news letter too.
>
> EG... problem... when I back up and put brakes on there is a
clunk,, when I
> go forward,the 1st stop I hear the same clunk then is not heard
again till
> next time I back up.. seems to come from a front wheel.
> Answer...Have someone stand near car and listen for clunk, Your
will find
> it is the rear wheel(eg Right side). now jack that wheel off the
> ground.safty it then have someone put brake on lightly as you turn
wheel
> back and forth.look at the backing plate and you will see a bit of
movement!
> the 4 bolts that hold it on have come loose and sometimes the
backing plate
> holes will become enlongated.(if that happens you must replace the
plate.I
> have in stock)To repair you must take the rear hub off(tool
required) to get
> at the bolts..usually that torax'' same as prop shafts have)
> these bolts must be loctighted, and be very snug..35 ft lbs.
> Gord Souter,Canadian 4 amphs,
> ORILLIA ONT.
>
> MY new phone # is 1 705 327 2820
(www.amphicar.ca)
>
> I buy, sell and restore Only Amphicars
> over 700 different parts for sale.
> Interior kits and fibreglass panels my specialty!
>
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
>