Brakes and Bearings

A

Al Heath

Guest
My favorite lake is quite high this spring (actually, several ramps flooded
out), and that means a lot of silt in the water. That fine clay silt is
pretty slipperly so it wasn't a surprise that the brakes started taking
more and more pressure to stop, no longer in the range of a 200 lb gorilla
but getting closer to a 300 pounder.... Time for a good cleaning ... get
all that silt out of the drum and off the shoes ... scrubb a dub dub with
lots of water and a scotch brite to remove the imbedded silt, and a final
pass with standard brake cleaner to make sure any grease film is gone. Now
I can smoke the tires again ... much more reassuring for summer crazies on
the road.... So, if your braking power is fading, you might consider a good
cleaning.

While you're in the neighborhood, check out the front bearings. If there's
any doubt, take a quick trip to Napa or Auto Zone for a standard Timken
30204 and/or 30206 that are most likely in stock However, the inner seal
probably isn't in stock (its a 65 - 85 - 10 similar to a Napa 25452 ...
don't quote me on this Napa number, but cross reference the dimensions
instead... which Napa can order, but it will still takes a few days as my
regional warehouse didn't stock it and they had to come from national), but
Hugh should be able to easily fix you up too, and if its been a while since
the rubber brake hoses were replaced, get those from Hugh too make sure the
brakes will release (deteriorated rubber acts like many check valves not
allowing the hydraulic pressure to release). But back to the bearings,
here's a tip if you have difficulty removing the outer brearing race from
the hub. Contrary to the inner race which has a nice edge you can tap
against, the outer race is pretty much flush with the inside of the hub.
An easy way to get it out ... take your wire feed welder and run a small
bead around the center of the race (you aren't saving it anyway ! ) . As
the weld cools and contracts, the race will just about fall out of the hub
all by itself as you turn it over, and if not, you now have something to
tap on. (For me, 3 out of 4 fell out by themselves with the welded bead,
and the 4th took only one gentle tap).

Now I'll ask if anybody has a tip they can share with me. Packing the
inner bearing. Unlike the outer bearing, I have had zero luck attempting
to remove the inner ones for cleaning and re-packing without destroying
them. So, I've been slopping grease on the outside trying to work it down,
and using a needle fitting on my grease gun, trying to squirt some in
between the rollers from the side. Anyone have a good technique for the
inners? You old folks in the choir already know this, use the AMSOIL
grease. When I go to repack mine, the AMSOIL still tooks like grease after
several swimmings, and the trapped water still looks like water. Other
grease quickly turrns in to a slimey brown snot resembling a decomposing
slug. I think the bearings need all the help they can get as the warm hub
submerges into cold water.

Al Heath
 
A

amphi_sc

Guest
>> the inner seal probably isn't in stock
>>(its a 65 - 85 - 10 similar to a Napa 25452 ...
>> don't quote me on this Napa number ...

Regarding my previous post, I posted an incorrect seal number
from memory... Looking at the box, I actually used a (CR
Chicago-Rawhide) 25424 via Napa. These are different numbers
than what is shown on the old Universal Parts list which was
showing a 68 for one dimension, but I did use a 65-85-10. I
just wanted to set the record straight of what I actually used
in case somebody searches the archives.... And by the way, the
CR website has some interesting technical information on
seals: http://www.chicago-rawhide.com/general/tech/tech.htm
and self study tips such as:
http://chicago-rawhide.com/auto/seals/selfstdy/sbins010.htm
and more....

Al
 
D

David Chapman

Guest
Re: Re: Brakes and Bearings

CR website has some interesting technical information on
seals: http://www.chicago-rawhide.com/general/tech/tech.htm
and self study tips such as:

Al,

That's a good link, I really like the look of their "Speedi-sleeve" product, it
could have an application in Amphicar on the front hubs and both ends of the
drive shafts, it looks like the correct sizes are available and can be installed
at home, no prices but must be cheaper than the other options, someone should
give it a try - or maybe one of the Chicago owners should go see them !

David Chapman
 
E

ericm_60707

Guest
I'll ask Mr. Wave if he wants to go on a field trip. I'm pretty
certain I had some dealing with them back in the 80's. In any case
some of there technical folks might like a ride in an Amphicar.

Eric


> give it a try - or maybe one of the Chicago owners should go see
them !
>
> David Chapman
 
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