Body Repair

E

Ed Price

Guest
OK, I'm getting close to doing some serious rust repair.

On my engine cover, the whole rear edge, the part that turns down, is a
Swiss-cheese of rust. After scrubbing with a wire brush, and a follow-up with a
wire wheel, I'm down to no loose rust, but I haven't gotten the rust off of the
firmer steel. The next step is to chemically clean it.

But, before I maybe find that all that's left was rust, I want to ask what the
general repair options are. What would a good body-man do next? Would he try to
weld a strip of sheet metal to the engine lid, above the Swiss-cheese area? Or,
since the problem is only in the last 2 inches or so of the lip, would this be a
candidate for fiberglass and/or epoxy?

And then there's my trunk. The outer blade flange, the approximately .06" thick
knife-edge that faces down all around the perimeter of the trunk, is also badly
rusted. The rusted part is the section all across the front, and about two feet
back along each side.

Again, what should be done? Should you cut a long strip of sheet metal, then
fold it, and weld the base along the upper edge of the trunk, then do a lot of
grinding to feather it in? Or is there a better way, say from the bottom of the
trunk edge?

Also on the trunk, the surface metal skin has flexed away from the "X" shaped
cross-members. Can this be epoxyied back in place, or does this need to be
welded too?

Thanks!

Ed
El Cajon
67 Rust Guppy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
T

Tom Maruska

Guest
Ed Price wrote:
> OK, I'm getting close to doing some serious rust repair.
>
> On my engine cover, the whole rear edge, the part that turns down, is a
> Swiss-cheese of rust. After scrubbing with a wire brush, and a follow-up
> with a wire wheel, I'm down to no loose rust, but I haven't gotten the
> rust off of the firmer steel. The next step is to chemically clean it.
(Skip that step)

>
> But, before I maybe find that all that's left was rust, I want to ask
> what the general repair options are. What would a good body-man do next?
> Would he try to weld a strip of sheet metal to the engine lid, above the
> Swiss-cheese area? Or, since the problem is only in the last 2 inches or
> so of the lip, would this be a candidate for fiberglass and/or epoxy?
NO, NO, NO!
That's an EZ part to make. Make a new piece the width you need (about
2") You'll have to actually cut it about 2 1/2" so you have 1/2" for the
fold under. Just put a 90 degree bend in it for now, and then lay it on
top of the hood where it will go, and scribe the hood along the "upper"
edge of the new piece. Cut the old rusty stuff off along your scribe
mark, and BUTT weld the new piece in place. Finish folding it over
where it belongs, grind and fill the weld and paint it.

Check this web page for a similar repair on a tbird:
http://www.cpinternet.com/~tpls63/packtray.html

>
> And then there's my trunk. The outer blade flange, the approximately
> .06" thick knife-edge that faces down all around the perimeter of the
> trunk, is also badly rusted. The rusted part is the section all across
> the front, and about two feet back along each side.
Same thing here, cut it our and make new pieces to duplicate the
original. The repair can be done so it'll look factory original.
DO NOT bondo it up.

>
> Again, what should be done? Should you cut a long strip of sheet metal,
> then fold it, and weld the base along the upper edge of the trunk, then
> do a lot of grinding to feather it in? Or is there a better way, say
> from the bottom of the trunk edge?
>
> Also on the trunk, the surface metal skin has flexed away from the "X"
> shaped cross-members. Can this be epoxyied back in place, or does this
> need to be welded too?
Don't do either. You'll be forcing it back down into position and
you'll end up with it looking like the rocky mountains on the outside.
There should be about 1/8" space between them where where there was an
"anti rattle" pad. What's used now for restorations on a lot of
vehicles trunks and hoods is 30# SMOOTH rolled roofing. It doesn't have
the sand on it, it is just like extra thich tarpaper. When you make
your new pieces for the edge you can put the new anti rattle paper
between the structure and the sheet metal (use a little clear silicone
caulk to hold it in place) and pull down a little as you tack weld the
new pieces to the structure underneath. Should come together fine, then
do your finishing work again on the outside.
It'll look like new.


>
> Thanks!
>
> Ed
> El Cajon
> 67 Rust Guppy
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
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T

Tom Maruska

Guest
Sorry, I said "30# SMOOTH rolled roofing" and it is supposed to be "60#"

Ed Price wrote:
> OK, I'm getting close to doing some serious rust repair.
>
> On my engine cover, the whole rear edge, the part that turns down, is a
> Swiss-cheese of rust. After scrubbing with a wire brush, and a follow-up
> with a wire wheel, I'm down to no loose rust, but I haven't gotten the
> rust off of the firmer steel. The next step is to chemically clean it.
>
> But, before I maybe find that all that's left was rust, I want to ask
> what the general repair options are. What would a good body-man do next?
> Would he try to weld a strip of sheet metal to the engine lid, above the
> Swiss-cheese area? Or, since the problem is only in the last 2 inches or
> so of the lip, would this be a candidate for fiberglass and/or epoxy?
>
> And then there's my trunk. The outer blade flange, the approximately
> .06" thick knife-edge that faces down all around the perimeter of the
> trunk, is also badly rusted. The rusted part is the section all across
> the front, and about two feet back along each side.
>
> Again, what should be done? Should you cut a long strip of sheet metal,
> then fold it, and weld the base along the upper edge of the trunk, then
> do a lot of grinding to feather it in? Or is there a better way, say
> from the bottom of the trunk edge?
>
> Also on the trunk, the surface metal skin has flexed away from the "X"
> shaped cross-members. Can this be epoxyied back in place, or does this
> need to be welded too?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ed
> El Cajon
> 67 Rust Guppy
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
<<a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/M=251812.3170658.4537139.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705064625:HM/A=1564415/R=0/SIG=11t6t7kdo/*http://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60164784&partid=3170658">http://rd.yahoo.com/M=251812.3170658.4537139.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705064625:H\
M/A=1564415/R=0/SIG=11t6t7kdo/*http://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60164784&part\
id=3170658</a>>
>
>
>
> THE AMPHICAR-LOVERS LIST
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Before posting requests for information, please check the List
> Archives:
> http://www.escribe.com/automotive/amphicar/search.html
> For more information about this List and other available services
> visit:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amphicar-lovers/
> To UNsubscribe from this List, just send a blank email to:
> amphicar-lovers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Any other issues may be addressed to the List owner (Mike Israel) at:
> amphicar770@yahoo.com
> This list is provided as a free service. Please support our sponsors at:
> http://www.growerflower.com/default.asp?id=41762
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
 
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