An amphi owner with no web access (poor fellow) was asking me how one goes about bybassing the bilge blower switch. I know this was done on my car and others and is just a matter of a wire or two. However, Dave did mine so I am not sure of how.
Can someone describe what wires to snip, splice, etc. to bypass the need for bilge blower button.
I don't have the amphi manual in front of me right now however it should just be as simple as unplugging the 2 wire connectors approximately in the middle of the dash (by ignition switch) and re-plugging back into the original harness connectors. This takes the bilge blower wiring harness out of the circuit(s). Double check the book regarding numbers and wire colors on the connectors.
The timer tubes are still available - for a price. Perhaps G.I. has
them. Amperite still makes these original tubes used in the
Amphicar. Those tubes are fairly robust. I know mine is still
working 45 years later. Probably many others too.
Amperite G series time delay relay part number 12NO120T (12V, Normally
Open, 120 sec. delay, 9-pin miniature base)
I agree, a modern version can probably be hidden inside one of the old
relay cans. And to complete that original look, any old 9-pin
electronics tube can be plugged into the socket.
Ken Chambers, CA
On Apr 1, 2008, at 10:17 PM, PeterP wrote:
> Has anyone made a solid state version of this? Seems like it would
> be failry straightforward to do for someone who knows electronics.
> From what I remember, the bilge blower is a good thing to have, it's
> just that the tubes burn out and there is no ready replacement for
> them. Is that correct?
2 minutes is a long time to wait. I have not tried it as I always use the button anyway, but might a shorter (say 30 second) delay be more likely to be endured. If you try a surplus Thermal Time Delay Relay,
make sure to check the # of base pins and Normally Open vs Closed status and naturally, the voltage....
Wierd. My link to surplussales is on the website version of my previous message on the forum, but it didn't come with the email version I received. Anybody else notice their email didn't get the website address to surplussales included in their email?
I received your text only message with no links on the email version.
On Apr 2, 2008, at 5:48 AM, amphi_sc wrote:
> Wierd. My link to surplussales is on the website version of my
> previous message on the forum, but it didn't come with the email
> version I received. Anybody else notice their email didn't get the
> website address to surplussales included in their email?
I rebuilt the entire board and used it for a few years and it worked perfect. We were loading up to go to Celina last year and amphi would not start. One of the relays went bad. Better now then on the lake. I have spare relays, etc however I left it all in place and hooked up but took it out of the system by unplugging the connectors.
I agree with leaving the hardware in place but bypassing it electrically. I do not imagine that anyone actually waits for it to cycle before starting their Amphi? Most people jump in, turn on ignition, hit bypass button, and start engine. It adds no real value so I would rather not have to worry about it failing in the middle of the lake. I also think this was a USA only feature to meet USCG regs.
Yes it does add real value! Its is a good thing to keep operational. There is a reason it is required by the USCG. If you are on CG regulated waters and do not have an operational blower, they can impound your car and fine you. Besides why would you purposefully disable a safety feature as important as this. I always use mine for a short time upon starting. I keep tabs on what the exhaust from the blower smells like. If I smell raw fuel, I look closer to find the problem. When my tank is 1/2 full or more, I run it constantly while swimming or driving just to be safer.
This is what can happen if you have a fuel leak and don't use the blower...
You are not disabling the bilge blower, you are just bypassing the switch that you need to press before starting. Does anyone actually wait until the blower cycles before starting? Again, I think most people hit the bypass button as soon as they turn the key. I suspect that more fires are caused by leaking oil coolers or burst oil cooler lines than by fumes in the bilge.