|
|
|
Best Motor Oil for Amphicar
- Thread starter BrianK
- Start date
NOT ANOTHER what oil thread. See below as posted here previously and stolen from another forum ...
============================================
OK, here is the skinny..again
There are several types of sythetic the base stock is what differentates them.
The best base stock is Polyol-ester (Redline & Motul)
Next best Di-ester (Royal Purple, Amsoil, Neo)
Next is polyolefin polyamine (Mobil 1)
Hydrocracked (Syntec, Valvoline)
Finally regular dyno oils
In terms of a daily driver, just pick the synthetic you like the sound of and change it every 5k...it ain't gonna make a hill of beans difference over the life of a street driven motor!!
BTW, the racing industry DOES NOT use the same mobil 1 you buy off the shelf, true racing oils do not contain detergents a racing engine is typically rebuilt long before any issues with deposit build up occur. Also, racing oils are usually not multigrades, they are straigt weight oils....
blah blah blah blah blah.....do a search
If they were the same price, I'd buy Motul / Redline every time and twice on Sunday
============================================
OK, here is the skinny..again
There are several types of sythetic the base stock is what differentates them.
The best base stock is Polyol-ester (Redline & Motul)
Next best Di-ester (Royal Purple, Amsoil, Neo)
Next is polyolefin polyamine (Mobil 1)
Hydrocracked (Syntec, Valvoline)
Finally regular dyno oils
In terms of a daily driver, just pick the synthetic you like the sound of and change it every 5k...it ain't gonna make a hill of beans difference over the life of a street driven motor!!
BTW, the racing industry DOES NOT use the same mobil 1 you buy off the shelf, true racing oils do not contain detergents a racing engine is typically rebuilt long before any issues with deposit build up occur. Also, racing oils are usually not multigrades, they are straigt weight oils....
blah blah blah blah blah.....do a search
If they were the same price, I'd buy Motul / Redline every time and twice on Sunday
Canadian four amphs
Amphicar Expert
As Mike has stated this is not a real imortant issue fot Amphicars,
Most only travel a few miles per year.
When I rebuild a motor I use std 10w40 brands,
At 500 miles or 1st year I recommend changing it(oil and Filter) and setting the heads and valve lifters.
at this time a stright 30w or 40 w oil could be used but stock up as they are harder to find now.Many do not switch brands or intermix,, that a good note too.
BUT>>>>I just pulled a 500 mile motor out of Customers car,, I recomended I take pan off, to change all the oil.. there was a 1/2 inch of black ioily goo that did not come out drain but would have mixed with new oil..
Changing oil every fall may be a way to get most sludge out with out pulling motor.My recomentation is if oil is at all black,, change it ,
GORD SOUTER
Most only travel a few miles per year.
When I rebuild a motor I use std 10w40 brands,
At 500 miles or 1st year I recommend changing it(oil and Filter) and setting the heads and valve lifters.
at this time a stright 30w or 40 w oil could be used but stock up as they are harder to find now.Many do not switch brands or intermix,, that a good note too.
BUT>>>>I just pulled a 500 mile motor out of Customers car,, I recomended I take pan off, to change all the oil.. there was a 1/2 inch of black ioily goo that did not come out drain but would have mixed with new oil..
Changing oil every fall may be a way to get most sludge out with out pulling motor.My recomentation is if oil is at all black,, change it ,
GORD SOUTER
CapnJohn
Amphi Guru & Former IAOC President
A couple tips;
Never use synthetics in a new engine! You must use standard non-synthetic type oils until the rings have seated otherwise you will have excessive blowby resulting in heavy oil consumption but great at killing mosquitos. :005:
Once your engine is broken in then as Gord stated, adj valves and change fluids. I use 100% synthetic (I prefer Royal Purple) and change the oil every other fall but change the filter every fall so she goes into storage with clean fluids. Before changing, I add 1 QT of diesel fuel to the oil, let it IDLE (do not rev it or drive it) for 10 minutes before draining. This helps clean passageways and emulsify any sludge for a cleaner engine.
Never use synthetics in a new engine! You must use standard non-synthetic type oils until the rings have seated otherwise you will have excessive blowby resulting in heavy oil consumption but great at killing mosquitos. :005:
Once your engine is broken in then as Gord stated, adj valves and change fluids. I use 100% synthetic (I prefer Royal Purple) and change the oil every other fall but change the filter every fall so she goes into storage with clean fluids. Before changing, I add 1 QT of diesel fuel to the oil, let it IDLE (do not rev it or drive it) for 10 minutes before draining. This helps clean passageways and emulsify any sludge for a cleaner engine.
I use synthetics in all my cars but agree with John that Dino oil is best for newly rebuilt engines. Yes, Mobil 1 is the factory fill for many high performance vehicles. But your Amphi's engine is not built to the same tolerances and specs of a Honda Vtec, it is basically a tractor engine. After that 1st oil change, synthectic is the way to go if only for its ability to withstand high temperatures better. I use redline but they are all good.
DavidC
Amphicar Expert
Literally millions of miles over 45 years with these engines in the UK. General view from the Triumph guys is:
Change oil every year or every 3000 miles if sooner. Design is such a lot of fuel and carbon gets washed into the oil.
Ideally change the filter every year as well but not as important as oil. When Triumph sold these engines into Africa they didn't even fit a filter (because of spares availability) but instead said change oil twice a year.
Synthetics are seen as not doing any harm but not really necessary as you still need to change them every year.
Be careful of going too thin - 10/40 works well but thinner than that and a lot ends up in the bilge.
Oh and as Gord says, if you can remove and clean out the oil pan (or sump in English/english) that's good, when refitting it don't overtighten - bolts shouldn't be much more than finger tight. Some Amphicars have holes in the oil pan from rust and where they have been dragged across the floor - watch for that.
David C
Change oil every year or every 3000 miles if sooner. Design is such a lot of fuel and carbon gets washed into the oil.
Ideally change the filter every year as well but not as important as oil. When Triumph sold these engines into Africa they didn't even fit a filter (because of spares availability) but instead said change oil twice a year.
Synthetics are seen as not doing any harm but not really necessary as you still need to change them every year.
Be careful of going too thin - 10/40 works well but thinner than that and a lot ends up in the bilge.
Oh and as Gord says, if you can remove and clean out the oil pan (or sump in English/english) that's good, when refitting it don't overtighten - bolts shouldn't be much more than finger tight. Some Amphicars have holes in the oil pan from rust and where they have been dragged across the floor - watch for that.
David C
For you Royal Purple fans, it is on sale at Amazon through 06 November wth free shipping.
Amazon.com: Amazon.com - Royal Purple: Automotive
Amazon.com: Amazon.com - Royal Purple: Automotive
Similar threads
