amphicar restoration

[Jack Knopf]

Just starting on a 67 amphicar restoration, pretty badly rusted out
but most all there. I have been reading up on sheet metal welding.
The book I have say either heli-arc(Tig) or gas(acetelyne). I am
going to do all welding myself. I have been trying to figure out
just what sheet metal parts to buy from Gordon's. Any suggestions on
welding and patching the hull. Thanks in advance, Jack.

 

[a_colo_native]

--- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "Jack Knopf"
<installerjack@h...> wrote:
> Just starting on a 67 amphicar restoration, pretty badly rusted out
> but most all there. I have been reading up on sheet metal welding.
> The book I have say either heli-arc(Tig) or gas(acetelyne). I am
> going to do all welding myself. I have been trying to figure out
> just what sheet metal parts to buy from Gordon's. Any suggestions
on
> welding and patching the hull. Thanks in advance, Jack.

Jack,

If your car is an early one (W/O lips), save your money for the
unique parts (battery floor/under the muffler, etc). Go buy the
sheetmetal in 4 X * sheets for about $60 and make your panels
yourself. If your car is a late one with the lips, then it may be
worth while to get the prefab panels.

Glad to have you aboard!

John Bevins

 

[tommyintpa@aol.com]

In a message dated 5/7/03 5:38:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
minnow@amphicar.net writes:

<< Jack,

If your car is an early one (W/O lips), save your money for the
unique parts (battery floor/under the muffler, etc.). Go buy the
sheetmetal in 4 X * sheets for about $60 and make your panels
yourself. If your car is a late one with the lips, then it may be
worth while to get the prefab panels.

Glad to have you aboard!

John Bevins
>>
Good suggestion Captain John,
I think the heavy metal is 20 gauge and the not so heavy metal is 14 gauge.
But if that is incorrect someone please correct me. I got a lifetime supply
of each at the local sheet metal shop for $22. When you go in ask for "drops"
those are the trimmings and they are plenty big for your fender fixin.
WELCOME JACK, and thank you for saving your Amphicar.
The world will be a happier place when your car swims again -- wait and see.
Tommy in Tampa
Red '68 Weird Harold

 

[markamsdill@aol.com]

Re: Re: amphicar restoration

Hello all, In regard to the metal gauge question , the thinner metal has a
higher number.14 gauge is very thick, 16 ga. is normally as thick as you need,
20 is ok. Most older cars were 20ga.The ductwork in a newer home will be 26 or
28 ga. Good luck with your car, if you have any questions email me. Mark Amsdill
62 blue, 63 white

 

[rogtwo@aol.com]

Jack,

About welders -- you might want to look at the little wire-feed (MIG - Metal
Inert Gas) units. I have one, and I really like it.

These welders often come with a flux-cored wire that allows you to weld
without the inert gas (argon?). BUT, to weld thinner metal (like body
panels), I think you will need to use the gas. I've welded body metal with
my flux-cored wire, but it does NOT do a nice job. It's hard to get a good
weld without burning through.

However, the instructions on my unit show it can weld thinner metal if you
use thin wire and the inert gas. With my flux-cored 0.035 wire, it shows it
can weld down to 20 gage (0.036') metal. With a 0.025 wire and gas
shielding, it shows it can weld as small as 24 gage (0.024') metal. The
piece of metal I could measure on my Amphi (a front hood corner gusset),
measured as 22 gage.

Don't get the wrong idea from all the "data" I gave above. I am NOT and
expert welder. My feeling is a MIG unit would work well for you as they are
not to expensive, and the filler wire feeds automatically, avoiding the need
to manually feed filler wire. Also, I have seen the work professionals have
done welding heavy (1/4 inch thick) roll cages to thin body sheet metal with
a MIG welder. It was impressive! But, my advice is to look under welding
supplies in your yellow pages, and then go talk to a few of them to see what
they recommend.

Roger St. John
White '63
Seattle


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