Amphicar Mysteries: Tops & Brakes

  • Thread starter Larry & Nancy Solheim
  • Start date
L

Larry & Nancy Solheim

Guest
<blockquote class="replbq" style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">


We have had many threads on the arcane Amphicar Top Mechanisms and their operation. I know that after 12 years I am still lucky if I can correctly lower it twice in a row!


The other area that I have fought with over the years are the rear brake shoes and springs. Does anyone have a decent, repeatable method of installation that does not require excessive prying w/ a screwdriver; bending of the lower, long armed spring; or tearing of a wheel cylinder dust boot by the end of a shoe?


Thanks, --Larry





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M

Michael Echemann

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<table bgColor="#ffffff">
<font face="Arial" size="2">Larry:
The secret to the top is to bend the entire assembly strait back with the front up in the air. Then bend the middle section back and at the same time make sure the bow which moves is pushed downward. Your top should set right down inside the rear area and be out of your way to put the boot on easily. If your boot it difficult to fit put the two ends (far right and far left) snaps on first then do the rest.</font>
<font face="Arial" size="2"></font>
<font face="Arial" size="2">Last week I installed new wheel cylinders. I noticed that with a bit of patients and care not to tear the boot I was able to pretty easily pull the old cylinder out. When this was done the rear shoes dropped down as an entire assembly. I wasn't changing the shoes but feel it would have been pretty easy at that point. It was also pretty easy to set the cylinder in the shoe ends and push the assembly up while dropping the rear of the cylinder into it's hole. Of course since you need to disconnect the brake line you should bleed it which you might not want to do only to change the shoes.</font>
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<font face="Arial" size="2">Mike</font>
<blockquote style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----
<div style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black">From: Larry & Nancy Solheim
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">To: amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2005 10:56 PM
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial">Subject: [amphicar-lovers] Amphicar Mysteries: Tops & Brakes



<blockquote class="replbq" style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">


We have had many threads on the arcane Amphicar Top Mechanisms and their operation. I know that after 12 years I am still lucky if I can correctly lower it twice in a row!


The other area that I have fought with over the years are the rear brake shoes and springs. Does anyone have a decent, repeatable method of installation that does not require excessive prying w/ a screwdriver; bending of the lower, long armed spring; or tearing of a wheel cylinder dust boot by the end of a shoe?


Thanks, --Larry





</blockquote>



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M

Mike Israel

Guest
I mentioned a tool back in August that will make
bleeding your brakes an even easier task than changing
your oil. This could make Mike E's suggestion about
removing the wheel cylinders to change the pads an
actual time saver. I can bleed the whole brake system
in about 5 minutes without needing assistance. This
is a "must have" addition to your tool kit and will
actually encourage you to make bleeding the brakes a
part of your regular maintenance ritual.

Here is my original post ..

As you know, bleeding your Amphi's brakes should be a
part of the annual maintenance ritual. However, as
this is a pain in the bilge which often requires two
people, it is frequently defered. The result is
siezed brake pistons.

I have tried a number of systems for bleeding brakes
and found that most do not work. The MityVac type
systems usually do not work because air leaks around
the open bleeder valve.

Anyway, today I picked up a system which I can
wholeheartedly endorse as a "must have" addition to
your tool kit. It makes the bleeding process a quick
and painless one man operation. It is called the
Motive Products Power Bleeder. It is essentially a
pesticide sprayer type bottle with a pressure valve.
It comes with the correct ATE resevoir cap. Put some
fresh fluid in the bottle, attach cap, pump it up, and
open each bleeder valve (in the order of left rear,
right rear, right front, left front). I also removed
most of the old fluid from the resevoir first as there
is no point pushing old fluid through the system.
Works great and sure beats bribing your spouse to pump
the pedal.

I picked mine up from a BMW parts supplier which is
located near my house. It lists for $49.95 on their
web site.
http://www.partsbmw.com/productindetail.asp?ProdID=3500

You can probably find it elsewhere, just make sure you
order the kit with the correct resevoir cap (BMW
type). Other caps are available for your other
vehicles as well.




--- Michael Echemann <echemike@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> ... Of course since you need to
> disconnect the brake line you should bleed it which
> you might not want to do only to change the shoes.
>
 
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