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SV: Propeller Shaft U-Joints

Discussion in 'General Amphicar Discussion' started by Bo Strander, Aug 18, 2003.

  1. Bo Strander
    Offline

    Bo Strander Guest

    Hi Steve,
    No big deal actually to remove and overhaul your u-joints (that is if yo?
    have your axles out of the car on your working bench).
    - First mark both forks with a punchmark or similar so you now how to put
    them together again.
    - Take away the circlips
    - Use a socket that fitts inside where the circlips was placed, as large as
    possible but well inside the "walls".
    - With a hammer ( preferably a soft one that eliminates uneven strokes, and
    hitting as perpendicular towards the bearing cage as possible) and some even
    strokes on the top of the socket you should notice that the opposite bearing
    cage is moving towards the flange (down towards the bench).
    - When you have driven the lower bearing cage as far down as possible, you
    invert the axel 180? and now by hitting the fork (not the bearing case!) you
    drive the other bearing cage as far out as possible.
    -You should now be able to manouvre out the u-joint from the bearing cages
    and thereby separate the two axle -halves.
    -You now have two bearing cages driven half way out of the fork. Use a soft
    plier with soft grips or some soft cloth or plastic
    in between the grips, and take out the bearing cages.
    -Assembling is straightforward, no problems there: Take care when you drive
    home the bearing cages that you drive them carefully, make sure not to tilt
    them (if tilted they will jam). Also take care not to drive them home to
    far, just enough to fit the snaprings.

    When you put together the two axle-parts again make sure you follow the
    markings you did at the start. Then you should have no problems with
    misalignement and vibrations.

    Hope you can understand my sw-english :) and good luck with the work.
    Honestly: If you have taken out the driveshafts from your car , you should
    have no problems with this job.

    Good luck
    Bo the swede (painting my amphi next month)



    -----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
    Fr?n: Steven D. Reich [mailto:sdreich@pacbell.net]
    Skickat: den 18 augusti 2003 03:08
    Till: Amphicar-Lovers
    ?mne: [amphicar-lovers] Propeller Shaft U-Joints


    Hi-

    Apparently there is a U-joint repair kit for propeller shaft U-joints
    which
    at ~$54 is far cheaper than a shaft assembly (~$300). I have removed
    retainer rings from the four u-joint ends at the prop side. Now what?
    How
    do I get it apart? There are no grease fittings, so how are you supposed
    to
    lubricate these joints?

    -Steve

    '64 red (AMPHICR) in the driveway in many, many pieces
    '64 red (I SWIM 2) happy to be home safely from its trip to Celina


    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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  2. Al Heath
    Offline

    Al Heath Guest

    For u-joints in general, another member suggested:
    >> - Use a socket that fitts inside where the circlips was placed,
    >> as large as possible but well inside the "walls".

    On the other hand, I use the just the opposite ... a large socket that fits
    onto the yoke ears and large enough such that the end bearing cap will fit
    INTO the socket (Fairly large socket). I support the cross via the other
    ears of this yoke by laying it on the jaws of a vice and thus when driving
    the vertical ears down, the horizontal ears stay put and the end bearing
    cap comes UP into the large socket. Years ago I used to drive the cross
    down as previously mentioned, but seem to have better luck lately driving
    the ears down and letting the end bearing cap come up instead. It'll come
    up enough to grap with vice grips or the jaws of the vice to wiggle it the
    rest of the way out. To re-install, after the appropriate pre-lubing to
    hold the needle bearings in place in the end cap, I first will SQUEEZE the
    bearing caps into position (as far as they will go) with the jaws of a
    vice, and then use a small socket fitting inside the circlips and SQUEEZE
    the caps into "final" position. I find less chance of getting them started
    crooked this way. Then, after putting the circlips in place, I put the
    yoke back on the vice as if I was going to take it apart (thus using the
    large socket) and tap (medium force ... ) to set the end bearing caps back
    out against the clips. When it is "just right", the joint will move free
    and easily in all appropriate directions.

    So, for what its worth, you have differing opinions. I'm just relaying
    what works for me, Your mileage may vary.

    Al in Tx
  3. nelson625@aol.com
    Offline

    nelson625@aol.com Guest

    Re: Re: SV: Propeller Shaft U-Joints

    Al -
    I would second everything you said about U-joint removal and
    reinstallation. It has worked well for me exactly as you described, particularly
    in
    your utilization of the vise. However, I would add one suggestion gleaned from
    someone who does this procedure over and over. That is, after the new joint is
    installed, as you mentioned it should move freely with no indication of a
    bind. IF it does not, a sharp rap with a hammer (not overdoing it) on the yoke
    on
    both outer sides of the u-joint (the rap being in the same line as an
    imaginary line from end cap to end cap) will almost always free it up
    immediately. If
    not, it would tend to indicate that one end cap was somehow put in slightly
    crooked or cocked. It is prettty hard to get one in crooked very far without
    distorting the end cap irreparably, but stranger things have happened. This is
    my
    two cents worth. Vic "Splash" Nelson near Daytona


    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  4. amphicar_reich
    Offline

    amphicar_reich Guest

    Hi-

    Thanks, Bo. I still don't understand the mechanics, but if you hit
    the cap and/or yoke enough times in the right sequence, the whole
    thing comes apart.

    Now my question is, "How do you get all those little rollers back in?"

    -Steve

    '64 red (AMPHICR) still in the driveway, now in more pieces
    '64 red (I SWIM 2) happy to be home from Celina, but feeling negected

    --- In amphicar-lovers@yahoogroups.com, "Bo Strander" <bs@a...> wrote:
    > Hi Steve,
    > No big deal actually to remove and overhaul your u-joints (that is
    if yo?
    > have your axles out of the car on your working bench).
    > - First mark both forks with a punchmark or similar so you now how
    to put
    > them together again.
    > - Take away the circlips
    > - Use a socket that fitts inside where the circlips was placed, as
    large as
    > possible but well inside the "walls".
    > - With a hammer ( preferably a soft one that eliminates uneven
    strokes, and
    > hitting as perpendicular towards the bearing cage as possible) and
    some even
    > strokes on the top of the socket you should notice that the
    opposite bearing
    > cage is moving towards the flange (down towards the bench).
    > - When you have driven the lower bearing cage as far down as
    possible, you
    > invert the axel 180? and now by hitting the fork (not the
    bearing
    case!) you
    > drive the other bearing cage as far out as possible.
    > -You should now be able to manouvre out the u-joint from the
    bearing cages
    > and thereby separate the two axle -halves.
    > -You now have two bearing cages driven half way out of the fork.
    Use a soft
    > plier with soft grips or some soft cloth or plastic
    > in between the grips, and take out the bearing cages.
    > -Assembling is straightforward, no problems there: Take care when
    you drive
    > home the bearing cages that you drive them carefully, make sure not
    to tilt
    > them (if tilted they will jam). Also take care not to drive them
    home to
    > far, just enough to fit the snaprings.
    >
    > When you put together the two axle-parts again make sure you follow
    the
    > markings you did at the start. Then you should have no problems with
    > misalignement and vibrations.
    >
    > Hope you can understand my sw-english :) and good luck with the
    work.
    > Honestly: If you have taken out the driveshafts from your car , you
    should
    > have no problems with this job.
    >
    > Good luck
    > Bo the swede (painting my amphi next month)

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